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At the table

Browned chicken thighs with mushrooms in a creamy sauce in a blue casserole.AI-generated image

Chicken with cider and cream: Normandy in a casserole

Let the mushrooms take on some colour before the cider bubbles into the pan. Add the cream only at the end. The sauce comes together around chicken that cooks gently under the lid.

Teurgoule in an earthenware dish, with creamy rice under a browned milk skin.AI-generated image

Teurgoule: rice beneath a brown crust

A large dish, a little rice and plenty of milk: the oven does the long work. Teurgoule is a rice dessert from Normandy. Our version follows Coutances Tourisme’s slow oven method, with cinnamon and one vanilla pod.

Warm camembert with garlic and thyme in a ceramic dish, with bread alongside.AI-generated image

Baked camembert with thyme in the rind

Set a small baking dish in the centre of the table and serve bread to dip into the warm cheese. A few cuts in the rind make room for garlic and thyme. This warm starter needs little else.

Bowl of onion soup topped with golden cheese toast.AI-generated image

Onion soup with cheese toast

Slowly cooked onions turn sweet and golden; the cheese toast goes on the soup only when serving.

Pasta coated in green basil pesto on a simple plate.AI-generated image

Basil pesto pasta, without a hot sauce pan

The pesto waits in the bowl until the pasta is ready. A splash of cooking water loosens the sauce; there is no need to fry or boil it separately.

Ligurian-inspired salad with tomatoes, peppers, onion, tuna, egg and olives.AI-generated image

Cundigiun with tomatoes, peppers and tuna

The vegetables stay raw and recognisable. Tuna, egg and olives turn this bowl into lunch; basil and a simple dressing bring the flavours together.

Four round barley rusks with grated tomato, crumbled feta and oregano.AI-generated image

Dakos with tomato and feta

A firm rusk becomes the base of a light lunch. Grated tomato soaks into the bread, while the feta on top stays crumbly.

Cooked chickpeas and softened onion in a lightly thickened lemon and olive oil sauce.AI-generated image

Quick chickpeas in lemon sauce

Lemon and olive oil give a simple tin of chickpeas a different role. Mash a small portion of the chickpeas to give the sauce more body without cream.

A bowl of smooth orange pumpkin soup with dark green drops of pumpkin seed oil and toasted pumpkin seeds.AI-generated image

Pumpkin soup with a green thread of pumpkin seed oil

A smooth orange soup topped with a few drops of dark green oil: it is that simple. Here, the oil is added in the bowl as a finishing touch. A handful of toasted seeds adds crunch.

An earthenware pot of warm, light brown bagna càuda over a tealight, surrounded by strips of red pepper, cauliflower, beetroot, Jerusalem artichoke, cabbage leaf and bread.AI-generated image

Bagna càuda: a warm sauce in the middle of the table

Garlic, anchovy and olive oil infuse together over the lowest heat into a warm sauce. Around it lies a pile of vegetables, raw and cooked, which everyone dips in themselves. Not a dish to eat in a hurry.

A plate of thin, deep yellow egg ribbons with glossy browned butter, crisp sage leaves and grated cheese.AI-generated image

Tajarin: thin egg ribbons with butter and sage

Plenty of egg yolk makes this pasta dough deep yellow and supple. Roll it out thinly, cut narrow ribbons and cook them only very briefly. With browned butter and sage, that is all you need.

A round, dense golden-brown hazelnut cake with roughly chopped roasted hazelnuts on top, one slice cut out.AI-generated image

Torta di nocciole: a cake that smells of roasted hazelnut

Hazelnut is not a side issue here but the main point. The nuts are first roasted and then ground. Egg and sugar are whisked until light, and only a little flour goes in. The cake is dense and moist.

A rectangular, paper-thin flammekueche with a deep brown blistered edge, white cream, thin onion rings and crisp lardons on a wooden board.AI-generated image

Flammekueche: paper-thin, hot and fast

The dough should be so thin that light almost shines through it. On top go only cream and quark, onion and bacon. At home you turn the oven up as high as it will go, up to 250 °C.

A large platter of choucroute garnie with pale golden sauerkraut, slices of smoked bacon, smoked sausage, frankfurters and boiled potatoes.AI-generated image

Choucroute garnie: sauerkraut with wine, bacon and sausage

Sauerkraut, wine and juniper braise together with a piece of smoked bacon until everything tastes of everything else. The sausages go in later, each at its own moment. A pot for a cool autumn evening and a full table.

A round plum tart with dark purple plum halves packed close together in circles, glossy juice and cinnamon sugar on a golden yeasted base, one slice cut out.AI-generated image

Tarte aux quetsches: plums standing in rows

Quetsches are small oval plums with firm flesh. Halve them and stand them upright close together, like roof tiles. The base is soft yeasted dough, as in the Alsace recipe this version is based on.

Wide strips of peeled roasted red pepper and aubergine with soft onion and olive oil.AI-generated image

Escalivada: soft roasted peppers and aubergines

The oven does most of the work. Roast the vegetables until soft inside, then remove their skins. Arrange what remains in broad strips on a platter with olive oil.

Four toasted slices of country bread rubbed with red tomato pulp, oil and salt; no tomato slices.AI-generated image

Pa amb tomàquet: rub the tomato into the bread

The tomato does not sit in slices on top of this bread. Rub the flesh of half a ripe tomato into the cut surface. A little oil and salt are enough; eat immediately before the crisp edges soften.

Four small shallow dishes of crema catalana with a thin amber sugar crust.AI-generated image

Crema catalana with a thin, crisp sugar crust

Make the pale custard on the hob. Only once it is cold does it get its layer of caramelised sugar. One spoonful brings the contrast: a crisp top, then soft custard with cinnamon and lemon.

Truffade in a dark pan: cooked potato slices bound together with pale melted cheese.AI-generated image

Truffade: potatoes under a blanket of cheese

The potatoes must be cooked first. Only then do you add the fresh tome: gentle heat and careful folding turn separate slices into a panful of soft, stretchy cheese.

Green lentil salad with small cubes of blue-veined cheese, shallot and finely chopped tarragon.AI-generated image

Lentil salad with Bleu d’Auvergne and tarragon

Keep the lentils whole and the cheese recognisable. In this salad, small cubes of Bleu d’Auvergne, finely chopped shallot and tarragon each bring something different to a simple bowl of lentils.

Brezel — eigen gegenereerde foodfotografie

Brezel: why this bread takes a bath first

The brown, almost black sheen of a pretzel does not come from the oven but from a tub of liquid before it. Without that bath it is just a roll tied in a knot.

Smorrebrod — eigen gegenereerde foodfotografie

Smorrebrod: an open sandwich with an order

It is an open sandwich, and that is about the only simple thing about it. There are rules for what goes on, the order in which you eat, and why there is no lid.

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